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Salvatore Ferragamo Men’s Collection Spring-Summer 2012

Monday, June 27, 2011
Snapshot of an artist’s studio: a beam of sunlight filters through the big windows across an ambience of natural wood. The very texture of the raw canvasses arouses the creative passion of an impetuous spirit.
A man with an intense gaze, hair combed back, a charismatic, seducer’s face from a sepia portrait. He’s wearing his shirt like a new tunic, he’s put on vintage sunglasses and chosen a frayed raffia hat.
The “uniform” being worn is for work, licensed to create, composed of elements that are basic but unique, brought together with subtle eccentricity. He wears a tailored double-breasted suit with a shirt made of the same material, a matte crocheted tie, and soft ‘30s-style high-waist trousers with pleats. He carries a travel bag, which is in fact a work bag, made of faded leather or canvas with leather detailing, designed with capacious pockets to contain all the instruments needed in his universe.
The decontracté attitude conceals a lesson in tailoring: pale hemp jackets with their impeccable cut but lived-in look, washed fabrics that look sun bleached, the exquisite, almost imperceptible finishing on the shirts. The wardrobe expands beyond its normal confines, seemingly dystonically: a lengthened jacket may allude to the form of a shirt, a loose-knit cardigan can be worn with the nonchalance of a dressing gown.
Light plays over the bulky textures of raw silks and linen. Silk towelling, accentuates the patterns of the knits in a profusion of chiné, mélange and embossed effects. A sensorial experience of soft and neutral shades, juxtaposed and mixed, in a palette that goes from the beiges to ivory and cream, and on to pastel greys and the mysterious chromatic depths of Navy blue and woodland undergrowth.
On his feet, the classic Derby is enriched by choosing two different materials, canvas with cowhide piping, natural leather sole and light coloured stitching. Or the ’30s two-tone plaiting of the sophisticated fringed model, all leather. And moreover, an ennobling take on the originality of the espadrilla: woven rope sole, squared at the front and with leather piping, also coming in a version reminiscent of a slipper.
A journey through an art that reflects culture and personality. A new stylistic composition that blends suggestions of yesterday and the elegance of today, with ineffable naturalness.

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